Straight Pins
with Instructor Steve Butler
Class 163
What is it?
Let’s assume you’ve just found that perfect sewing project. Fashion, fashion accessories, heirloom, quilts, home décor, crafts, whatever. Fabric and pattern are identified and are on hand ready to go to work. What else do we need? Tools! We’ve got to measure, mark and cut our fabric to very precise standards. All set now, time to sew, right? But wait, how do we hold all of those perfectly shaped gems of fabric in perfect position? ‘Cause we know if the alignment and stability of their placement is not as precise as the cut shapes, well, all is then for naught. Homemade or handmade, up to us. Thankfully we have an entire array of straight pins to help us do just that, perfectly cut pieces in equally perfect position. And there are so many uses for them. We use them to hold patterns in place on our fabric, bind fabric pieces, tailor fabric to our bodies, hold seams together, anchor trims, beads or other embellishments in place and even block knitted products. Because of this we’ve developed a wide variety of pin designs to satisfy any specific requirement. After all the time spent identifying patterns, designs, fabrics and threads and then after all the work of measuring, marking and cutting our fabric, we are still not done. We need to find the best pin for each application. There are many different styles and sizes of pins to choose from. The design features of each style straight pin makes one more suitable than another for any particular application. Taking the time to identify that “most perfect” pin for each application can make all of the difference in our finished work. There are also a few overarching principles that apply to any pin style selection.
- Size – As with sewing machine needles, we should always use the finest needle possible to be the least intrusive with our fine fabrics. If our pins are buckling as we insert them though, it’s probably a sign that we need to go to a heavier shaft. They shouldn’t bend. Length is important too. If we’re pinning several layers of fabric together as in quilting or pinning large seam allowances we’ll need to use longer pins. For appliqué, on the other hand, we can (and should) get away with shorter pins.
- Pin heads – The pin heads are very important. That’s the handle that allows us to effectively manipulate the pins. We have tiny metal heads, plastic heads, glass heads, and flat heads. Each provides specific advantages so pick the one that best suits your needs. If you’re planning on ironing over your pins it’s a good idea to verify their heat resistance before using them.
- Points – This is the business end of the pin. Needless to say it should be clean and sharp. The extra-sharp category also exists for special needs. Dull, bent or corroded (really old) needles damage our fabric and test our patience. When in doubt toss it. This is not the place to get stingy.
What does it do?
We use straight pins to hold patterns in place, bind fabric pieces, hold seams together, anchor trims, beads or other embellishments in place and even block knitted products. For each of these applications there is a “best” straight pin design that will give us the best results. Again, take the time to find that pin. You’ll thank me.
Wonder Pin – This pin is a revolutionary pin concept leveraging the benefits of both straight pins and safety pins into a single pinning tool. It’s a natural for basting. The handle or “closure” on the top of the pin allows us to comfortably manipulate the pin into the desired position and lock it in with one hand. To unpin just push down and over with the closure and pull the Wonder Pin free. The smooth locking feature of the Wonder Pin ensures that it is held securely in place on a broad range of fabric types from the very fine to the very heavy or multilayered applications.
Flower Head Pins – The defining feature is a large flat head. That makes it both easy to see and manipulate. It is especially well suited for pinning lace, eyelets or loose woven embellishments to fabric because the head will not slip through enlarged openings. You can also lay rulers flat on them when marking or cutting. The heads are not iron proof so keep them away from the heat. These pins come in three different diameters to provide strength without stressing your fabric.
- Extra fine – Very fine shaft and acute point for delicate fabrics.
- Fine – Thin shaft and acute point for fine fabrics like silk or satin.
- Regular – Same acute point but a little stronger and longer shaft for multiple layers of heavier fabrics. Great for quilting.
Appliqué Pins – These little gems are perfect for applying appliqués, trims, beads, or sequins to your project. The sharp, tapered point prevents damage to your fabric. The small 3/4″ size allows detailed work when many pins are required and space is limited.
Quilting Pins – Quilting pins have a fine point and a smooth shaft to make them fabric friendly. They are longer than many straight pins so they can penetrate several layers of fabric and stay in place. Clover quilting needles are available in two shaft sizes, fine for more delicate fabrics and regular for heavier fabrics. They have glass heads so they can be ironed.
Patchwork Pins – Patchwork pins have very fine points for use on the most delicate fabrics like silk and satin. Two sizes are available, fine and extra fine. They have glass heads so they can be ironed.
Silk Pins – Silk pins have very fine points and a shorter length for use on fine fabrics. Glass heads so iron safe.
Fork Pins – Fork pins have two shafts connected by a turned up end. This allows you to pin fabrics without lifting them. Perfect for securing hard to handle or slippery lining materials. They are great for positioning stripe or plaid fabric pattern alignment prior to sewing in place. They’ve also found a new home in creative contemporary quilting where matching unique shapes is required. Blocking knitted garments? No problem. Clover also has a Fork Blocking Pin that is one size larger and works great with knitted or crocheted fabrics.
How do I Promote it?
Straight pins have applications to almost everything we do in sewing, and because of that it is vitally important that everyone know which needle is best for which application. Right tool for the right job, right? Education is the key. Put together some attractive story boards showing the applications of each style pin with a number of different fabrics and applications. This will serve as a dedicated educational tool to all who pass within sight. You may also want to contact Clover for its Pin Guide which can be reprinted or placed on your website by you for distribution to all of your friends. Remember, knowledge is power. Share it!