Session 10, Sewing/Quilting

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What is it?– We’ve all been to our favorite purveyor of all things sewing and been amazed by the extraordinary selection of sewing machine needle styles.  Lots of names like universal, denim, stretch, jersey, etc.  It all sounds impressive but is it necessary?  Can we do it all with just a universal sewing machine needle? Yep, we can.  Do we want to?  Nope.  Why? Picture this.  You’ve engaged a world class gourmet chef to prepare dinner for a very special family gathering.  You’ve purchased all of the ingredients she specified and everything is in place when she arrives.  Unfortunately you’ve discovered too late that you’re a little short on cookware.  Pots and pans.  All you have available for her to create this epicurean feast in is one 6 quart sauce pan.  Could she do it?  Prepare everything from appetizers to dessert?  Of course.  Will it be as pleasing as it would be if she used all of the right frying pans, sauce pans, braisers, stockpots, roasters and woks?  Of course not.  Same with needles.  Every specific sewing application has some very specific requirements that must be met if we are to achieve our creative design.  You wouldn’t try to do eggs over easy in the 6 quart sauce pan so don’t use a universal sewing machine needle for piecing.

What does it do?- For any specific sewing application there is always a specific needle that is better suited than any other needle and will produce more satisfactory results than any other needle.  Taking the time to identify that needle is well worth the effort and will result in a more satisfactory sewing experience.

Universal – (Art No. 9110-9115) The universal needle has a slightly rounded point that is suitable for general sewing on most fabrics, both knit and woven.  It can be used as a fine ball point needle for use on fine knits.

Ballpoint – (Art No. 9126-9129) The ballpoint needle has a rounded point designed to prevent cutting or splitting fibers when sewing on knit fabrics.  We have to be careful because it will damage tightly woven fabrics.  It’s perfect for knit or stretch fabrics.

Super Stretch – (Art No. 9124-9125) The super stretch needle is designed for highly elastic, synthetic or knit fabrics.  It has a medium ball point and deep scarf to prevent cutting elastic fibers.  The eye is designed to help form a full sewing loop so no skipped stitches.

Microtex – (Art No. 9123) The microtex (sharp) needle has a very acute point ideal for sewing on fine or tightly woven fabrics.  Since the needle penetrates the fabric exactly where first touches, it produces the best “straight stitch”.  Add a straight stitch needle plate and it’s even better.  It’s great for micro-fibers, polyesters and high thread count fabrics.

Titanium – (Art No. 9116) The titanium needle has a slightly rounded point suitable for use on most fabrics.  The primary benefit of the titanium coating is that it improves “non-stick” applications when using various stabilizers.

Denim – (Art No. 9117-9119) The denim needle has a very acute point.  This reduces “buckling” pressure on the needle allowing it to penetrate heavy fabric without cutting fibers.  A Stiffened blade reduces needle deflection producing straight stitches on heavy fabrics.  For that reason it makes a great quilting needle.

Quilting – (Art No. 9120) The quilting needle has an acute point and a tapered tip for sewing across seams and through several layers of fabric.  The shape of the point and tip minimizes any unwanted distortion to high thread count fabrics.  Keep in mind, quilting is punishing work for a needle with all of the fabric, seams and batting so replacement is required more often than usual to maintain stitch quality.

Embroidery – (Art No. 9121) The embroidery needle has a slight ball point that makes it suitable for most fabrics, woven or knit.  It has a larger eye and groove that protects embroidery threads during stitch cycle.  Great for using heavy threads, special yarns, foil and delicate threads.

Metallic – (Art No. 9122) The metallic needle is designed specifically for the more fragile and stretchy metallic threads.  It has an enlarged, almost rectangular eye and an enlarged groove to protect specialty threads.  The slightly rounded point makes it suitable for most fabrics.

Topstitch – (Art No. 9133) The topstitch needle has an enlarged eye and an accentuated groove to handle heavy threads, doubling threads or to sew on heavy fabric.  The slightly rounded point aids in piercing heavier woven fabrics.

Anti-Glue – (Art No. 9134) The anti-glue needle is essentially a universal needle with a proprietary coating that enables us to sew through spray adhesives or sticky back stabilizers without fouling the needle.  We just sew.  No need to stop to clean our needle as we progress.  More sewing, less cleaning.

Blue Tip – (Art No. 9130) The blue tip needle is designed for embroidery.  It has an enlarged eye, light ball point and proprietary coating for minimum friction during the sewing process.  The result is trouble free embroidery.

How do I share it? –  Correct sewing machine needle selection is a never ending quest.  Most of us get so excited with our new fabric, threads and machines that we ignore the importance of the needles.  Every single class, club or guild meeting is the perfect opportunity to talk about needle sizes and styles.  Once you establish that needle conscious mind set, everyone will always want to make sure they are using a good needle that is the right size for the thread used and the right style for the fabric and application.  Get the point?